In terms of skincare, it is the ingredients that really matter. The business is riddled with terminology and fashionable products, however not all, ingredients are made the same. There are some with decades of science behind them and dermatologists around the world that support them and others that are just the hype.
Have you ever seen a product and wondered what any of it meant? You are not alone. Although abbreviations and terminology do vary between products, there are certain terms that you will find in many product labels, such as: These are 10 potent skincare ingredients that you need to know about, how they work, and how best to use them on your skin.
Hyaluronic Acid – the Dew ofinized or Water-Jack
What it does Hyaluronic acid is a moisturizing ingredient, which attracts and retains water within skin. A single molecule can bind 1000 times its own weight in water making the skin plump, smooth and hydrated.
On: All skin types, dry or dehydrated skin in particular.
How to wear: Use on slightly wet skin prior to moisturiser, so that hydration is trapped.
Examples of products in the UK
The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
Vichy Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Serum
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Vitamin C -The Star Associated With Brightness
What it does: Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a strong antioxidant that guards against damage by the free radicals, brightens dull skin, and fades dark marks. It also stimulates the increase of collagen production
Suitable to: An uneven skin tone, dull and pigmented skin.
How to use: Use in the morning prior to an SPF. It is most effective in a range of 10-20 percentage.
Product examples in UK
Roche Posay Pure Vitamin C10 Serum
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic (1 luxurious variant)
Retinol The powerhouse Of Anti Aging
How it works: Retinol (a vitamin A derivative) increases cell turnover, minimizes fine lines, smooths texture and treats acne. It is one of the studied anti-aging ingredients.
Suitable on: Anti-aging, acne, uneven texture.
How to use: Use it gradually (23 night per week). Apply with moisturiser and SPF as follow up the next day.
The UK examples of products include-
The Inkey List Retinol Serum
Olay Retinol24 Night Cream
Niacinamide The Multi-Tasker
Otherwise known as vitamin B3, niacinamide can control oil production, reduce redness, increase the barrier strength and minimise pores.
Best used on: Oily and acne-prone sensitive skin.
How to apply: May be used mornings and nights, it also functions well with most other ingredients.
The UK product case studies
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
Paula Generals Choice 10 Niacinamide Booster
Salicylic Acid -The Pimple Destroyer
What it does: A beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that reaches deep into pores to liquefy pore-clogging oil and buildup. This makes it fantastic to work on blackheads, whiteheads and break outs.
Use on: Oily, acne-prone and congested skin.
How to use it: It is contained in cleansers, toners and spot treatments. Moisten a few times a week so as not to over dry.
UK product examples
CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser
Paula Choice Skin Perfecting 2 % BHA liquid exfoliant
Glycolic Acid, comicÅussredki berr tvrdietsia stove, The Glow Giver
What it does: Glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid made naturally through sugar cane, sloughs the surface of the skin and removes dead cells, leaving the skin bright.
Suitable to: Dull skin tone, uneven textured skin, pigmentation.
How to use: Use at night and during the week starting 1-2 times. Apply SPF in the morning.
Examples of UK products
Pixi Glow Tonic (cult favourite)
Holy Grail Toner, The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution
Ceramides-a. Qwarrh the Barrier Layers
What it does The ceramides are lipids, which can be found in the skin barrier. They are moisturising, help shield against irritants, and toughen up sensitive or dry skin.
Suitable for: Dry, sensitive and eczema-prone skin.
How to apply: An excellent addition to moisturisers and creams, and should be applied during the morning and night.
UK products example
CeraVe Moisturising Cream
Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules
Peptides -The Collagen Boosters
What it does: Peptides are small combinations of amino acids which tell skin to make more collagen and elastin. This can stiffen the skin and minimize the fine lines.
Suitable to treat: Anti-aging, loss of firmness.
Application: Can be applied under moisturise or SPF either am or pm.
UK product examples
The typical Buffet (multi-peptide serum)
Medik8 Liquid Peptides
Zelaic Acid -The Redness Repellent
What it does: Azelaic acid is an inflammatory product that assists in the soothing of redness, decreasing pigment, and combating minor acne. It is peculiarly popular in treating rosacea.
Suitable to: Rosacea, redness, acne, uneven tone.
How to apply: Apply once a day and may be increased, at toleration, to twice a day.
UK product examples
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Paula s Choice Azelaic Booster 10
Sunscreen (SPF) The Unavoidable
What it does: Sunscreen is not some single ingredient, but the most essential product of any regimen. It defends against UV damage, that leads to early signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer.
Best with: Everybody, all days.
How to use: Apply liberally as the last step in your beauty repertoire in the morning time. Apply after every 2hrs when outside.
UK product examples
La Roche-Posay Antihelios UVMune 400 SPF 50+ Invisible Fluid
Bondi Sands 50+ Face Lotion
Final Thoughts
The skincare industry is a complex topic, to say the least, yet, focusing on these 10 star ingredients will help you create a routine that works. Ranging in hydrating agents (hyaluronic acid, ceramides) to powerhouse agents (retinol, vitamin C) these ingredients have been proved to work wonders when utilized in the right way.
Keep it in mind: it is important to be consistent rather than having numerous products. Select the ingredients that might benefit your skin issues, use them gradually and combine them with everyday SPF.
Good skincare is not about keeping up with the latest fad but rather about knowing the science that comes behind use of ingredients and being prudent when using them.
